As I was brewing last week, it struck me that we were brewing a kind of “Greatest Hits” lineup. We’ve got our original IPA, Dank Fruit Double, and All the Hops Triple IPA in the fermenters now.
Every time we brew IPA, it’s like greeting an old friend that you haven’t seen in a long time. It’s crazy to think that it was almost 3 years ago that we brewed the first batch. At the time, hazy IPA’s hadn’t really taken off in the craft beer world to the full extent that they have in the time since. I remember thinking that if we released a high quality example of the style in our first round of beers that we would hit the ground running. Back then, as a new brewery opening in a small tourist town, there was plenty of room for skepticism from potential customers about our beer. We wanted to do everything we could to overcome that skepticism by showing our dedication to quality. We opte to use the highest quality floor malted Maris Otter and we hopped the beer heavily with Citra, Simcoe, and Amarillo. Almost 3 years later and the recipe is same as that first batch, only now we have access to hand selected, premium hop lots and it remains our best selling beer. It’s also the beer that jump started all of our other hoppy beer production and the things we were excited about in that first batch are still featured in almost all of our other hazy IPA’s.
Dank Fruit Double is another kind of throwback beer. Our first batch of Dank Fruit was brewed just a few months after the release of IPA. After brewing a double IPA in our second round of brewing, we wanted to go bigger with our hop rates and make something more intensely aromatic. All of our hop additions were bumped up by 30% and we used hops with the highest oil content we could find. There was no name for the beer when we were brewing it, but on the brew day I smelled the aroma from the whirlpool hops and thought “That smells like what would happen if pot grew on fruit trees and we juiced the dank fruit.” While Dank Fruit has dank components to the aroma, it is at least equally fruity with huge peach aromas to accompany the mango and blueberry resulting in one of the double ipa’s I enjoy brewing the most. The complexity of the hop aroma seems to evolve with every sip.
Lastly, All the Hops Triple IPA was the first triple we brewed in Tombstone. When we got this year’s hops pelletized, I wanted to put them on display with a series of single hop beers, then a series that combines all of our contracted hops. I was a little skeptical about brewing a triple since they have a tendency to be cloyingly sweet and blur the lines of an American Barleywine and a Double IPA, but by eliminating all specialty malts and creating a highly fermentable wort to go along with a very large pitch of highly active yeast, we are able to create a 10% ABV beer that doesn’t have any of the burning fusel alcohol or syrupy sweet flavors that detract from the extreme hoppiness of the beer. Using 10 lbs per barrel of the highest quality Citra, Amarillo, Simcoe, and Mosaic available to us, All the Hops Triple manages to leave no doubt about what style this beer falls under.
Monday, July 22, 2019
Wednesday, March 20, 2019
Not Really a Barleywine, Beer Guy, Bright and Juicy, Pale Lager
It's been a fun week at the brewery! After releasing a new IPA on the weekend, we brewed three entirely new beers that we're excited to share soon.
First up, we have "Not Really a Barleywine." As anyone who has followed Tombstone from our beginnings, lighthearted trolling is right up our alley. In the past, we've named beers "Another Exercise in Mediocrity" and "Over and Out" after dealing with some criticisms online. This time around, we're having a good time with the recent explosion in barleywine popularity.
When I drank my first barleywine back in 2008, J.W. Lee's vintages were all the rage on beer forums. In fact, I think they had 3 versions of it in the BeerAdvocate top 100 when I started following the site. I got my hands on a 1997 Lagavulin Cask Harvest Ale. It wasn't at all what I expected and sadly, my 18 year old self hated it and dumped half the bottle. I thought it was flat, not sweet enough to support the Scotch flavor, and there was a load of sediment in the bottle that I didn't understand how it would get there. So I thought it was a bad bottle.
Over the next couple years, I continued to try bottles of different vintages and grew to love the style and began to appreciate that the carbonation level was low to help with the drinkability. I started enjoying traditional barleywines so much that as a 19 year old homebrewer, I brewed a 5 gallon batch with 100% floor malted Maris Otter, a 5 hour boil, and used only the first runnings of my mash, which resulted in a beer that finished at 15.5% ABV. It aged in a keg for about 5 years when I finally remembered that it existed and I started giving out samples at homebrew club meetings and to friends on special occasions. The last time I tried that beer, it was 8 years since the brew date and I forgot about it and left it in Alabama when I moved to AZ with about 3 gallons of it still remaining. At that point, the aging had turned the beer into something truly special... Still boozy, super bready from the Maris Otter, with hints of tobacco, sherry, and raisins.
When we first opened, I wanted to brew another traditional English style barleywine with 100% Maris Otter, a long boil, flavorful English Ale Yeast, a healthy dose of bittering hops, and low carbonation levels... like the way barleywines had been brewed for almost the entire history of the style. That batch went almost entirely into barrels and was released to our barrel society. It didn't go over all that well with complaints about the carbonation level being low, not being sweet, too thin... All the complaints that I had about traditional English barleywines when I'd first started drinking.
So last summer, we were noticing the growing popularity of barleywines and we thought we'd give it another shot, but we added some caramel malts, carbonated the beer to a higher level, and we brewed it to a higher gravity. Half the batch went into cans, half into barrels, and most of the barrels were released to our second year barrel society with a much better reception. Cans of the non-barrel aged version were reasonably well liked, but we kept seeing comments saying "Good, but not as dark as a traditional barleywine." or "Not really a barleywine, but still pretty good."
I began to question what people thought a barleywine entailed. So I started looking around and what I noticed was that a lot of those reviewers were a.) Newer beer drinkers and b.) were drinking extremely dark, almost black "barleywines" and referring to them as "traditional." It became clear that my preferred way of brewing a barleywine is old school, behind the times, and sadly, not relevant for modern craft beer drinking palates. These new barleywines are something entirely different from actual traditional barleywines. I like them in their own way, but they're almost unrecognizable as being related to the traditional examples. In a lot of ways, the beers we're seeing are more closely related to stouts without as much roasty intensity, or roasty, but non-astringent. So we decided to give in and brew this beer, but being unprepared to give up the "fight" about what makes a barleywine a barleywine, we couldn't help but show people what our definition of "Not Really a Barleywine" actually means!
In a nod to the traditions of barleywine brewing, we used floor malted Maris Otter for the base malt and a flavorful English Ale yeast. We used a very vigorous boil and a combination of specialty malts for rich toffee, sweet caramel, and a thick bodied barleywine that will result in an 11% ABV beer, half of which is going into a mix of bourbon, Jamaican Rum, Scotch (if you dislike peat smoke, stay away!), and Tequila barrels. The other half of the batch will go into cans and a small amount of draught will be available. While we're having a good time with some mild trolling and a little bit of smack talk, I'd be lying if I said I'm not really excited about this beer and the opportunity to brew something a little different from what I've done in the past.
The day after our barleywine brew day we hosted our good friend Ian "Beer Guy" Harwell from Ground Control for a collaboration brew day. Ian had some awesome art work done for the can featuring himself in a wrestling ring with a hop leaf... Probably my favorite can art from us. For the beer, we are using Pils malt from a new maltster (Proximity) that impressed us with their samples. It is highly uncommon that anyone can convince me to try something outside of Weyermann or Crisp malts, but the uniformity of the malting, biscuit and light honey flavors in the samples were exciting and it seemed to me that it would be the perfect base malt to show off some bright pineapple, grapefruit, and light floral/herbal aromas from my favorite Michigan grown hops out of Hop Head Farms.
It was a double batch brew day for us, so batch two of the day was the first beer in a new series of IPA's that we're calling "Bright and Juicy." A few months ago, I was talking with some customers that mentioned to me that they like our style of IPA's, but that they also liked lighter colored NEIPA's with a "brighter" hop aroma. Their comment got me thinking that I do tend to focus on the melon, berry, peach, and dank aromas in our IPA's and I'll use our "bright" aroma hops only for providing balance to the heavier, more intense aromatics. We do have access to several really great hop lots of hops that I would consider to be bright, such as our Amarillo which provides a ruby red grapefruit flavor when we use it in a blend with other citrusy hops.
Being a brewer that is always looking for brewing a wide variety of beers, I wanted to start this series to co-exist with our current IPA's that are a bit darker from our Maris Otter malts, and have the heavier aromatics. This first batch of our Bright and Juicy is featuring floor malted Bohemian Pils malt for a pale color and it has proven to be a good base for other hoppy beers we've brewed recently, such as our Double IPA Dry Hopped with Nelson and Mosaic. Perhaps the most exciting thing about this batch is the hop combo of all Oregon grown hops.
As I've mentioned in past posts, my trip to Oregon last September for the hop harvest was incredible. I found several hop lots that I couldn't believe how great they smelled. Two hops in particular stood out when I smelled them: Comet (which we brewed a single hop IPA with) and Strata. The Comet stood out in part because it's normally not thought of as a very exciting hop, but Crosby Farms first year of growing it yielded a hop that I considered to be special and a testament to their soil conditions and climate. Strata was a new one for me and we were fortunate to get a couple of boxes for this year as well as a contract for next year. This Bright and Juicy will be the first beer from us to feature it and we anticipate a huge amount of passionfruit aroma combined with the ruby red grapefruit of our Amarillo to be the dominant aromas.
Our last upcoming new beer is a pale lager that we intend to be for brewery only release in cans and draught throughout Cochise County. We are fortunate to live in a state where craft drinkers have come back around to appreciating lagers and where the bar is set high, due to many years of craft breweries producing world class lagers. We have our lager tanks filled right now and our process is a little bit unique for these beers in that we fermented them entirely in the shallow lagering vessels. We used a previously released, popular lager (Oktoberfest) recipe and scaled it down to a lower ABV, with a dryer finish, but it still displays all the malty flavor that we get from Vienna and Munich malts in our traditional Oktoberfest recipe. At 4.9% ABV and 7 IBU's, this is going to be a light lager that still packs an intensity of flavor that most people will not expect from a low abv, pale lager, while simultaneously retaining all the drinkability that people look for in a light beer.
First up, we have "Not Really a Barleywine." As anyone who has followed Tombstone from our beginnings, lighthearted trolling is right up our alley. In the past, we've named beers "Another Exercise in Mediocrity" and "Over and Out" after dealing with some criticisms online. This time around, we're having a good time with the recent explosion in barleywine popularity.
When I drank my first barleywine back in 2008, J.W. Lee's vintages were all the rage on beer forums. In fact, I think they had 3 versions of it in the BeerAdvocate top 100 when I started following the site. I got my hands on a 1997 Lagavulin Cask Harvest Ale. It wasn't at all what I expected and sadly, my 18 year old self hated it and dumped half the bottle. I thought it was flat, not sweet enough to support the Scotch flavor, and there was a load of sediment in the bottle that I didn't understand how it would get there. So I thought it was a bad bottle.
Over the next couple years, I continued to try bottles of different vintages and grew to love the style and began to appreciate that the carbonation level was low to help with the drinkability. I started enjoying traditional barleywines so much that as a 19 year old homebrewer, I brewed a 5 gallon batch with 100% floor malted Maris Otter, a 5 hour boil, and used only the first runnings of my mash, which resulted in a beer that finished at 15.5% ABV. It aged in a keg for about 5 years when I finally remembered that it existed and I started giving out samples at homebrew club meetings and to friends on special occasions. The last time I tried that beer, it was 8 years since the brew date and I forgot about it and left it in Alabama when I moved to AZ with about 3 gallons of it still remaining. At that point, the aging had turned the beer into something truly special... Still boozy, super bready from the Maris Otter, with hints of tobacco, sherry, and raisins.
When we first opened, I wanted to brew another traditional English style barleywine with 100% Maris Otter, a long boil, flavorful English Ale Yeast, a healthy dose of bittering hops, and low carbonation levels... like the way barleywines had been brewed for almost the entire history of the style. That batch went almost entirely into barrels and was released to our barrel society. It didn't go over all that well with complaints about the carbonation level being low, not being sweet, too thin... All the complaints that I had about traditional English barleywines when I'd first started drinking.
So last summer, we were noticing the growing popularity of barleywines and we thought we'd give it another shot, but we added some caramel malts, carbonated the beer to a higher level, and we brewed it to a higher gravity. Half the batch went into cans, half into barrels, and most of the barrels were released to our second year barrel society with a much better reception. Cans of the non-barrel aged version were reasonably well liked, but we kept seeing comments saying "Good, but not as dark as a traditional barleywine." or "Not really a barleywine, but still pretty good."
I began to question what people thought a barleywine entailed. So I started looking around and what I noticed was that a lot of those reviewers were a.) Newer beer drinkers and b.) were drinking extremely dark, almost black "barleywines" and referring to them as "traditional." It became clear that my preferred way of brewing a barleywine is old school, behind the times, and sadly, not relevant for modern craft beer drinking palates. These new barleywines are something entirely different from actual traditional barleywines. I like them in their own way, but they're almost unrecognizable as being related to the traditional examples. In a lot of ways, the beers we're seeing are more closely related to stouts without as much roasty intensity, or roasty, but non-astringent. So we decided to give in and brew this beer, but being unprepared to give up the "fight" about what makes a barleywine a barleywine, we couldn't help but show people what our definition of "Not Really a Barleywine" actually means!
In a nod to the traditions of barleywine brewing, we used floor malted Maris Otter for the base malt and a flavorful English Ale yeast. We used a very vigorous boil and a combination of specialty malts for rich toffee, sweet caramel, and a thick bodied barleywine that will result in an 11% ABV beer, half of which is going into a mix of bourbon, Jamaican Rum, Scotch (if you dislike peat smoke, stay away!), and Tequila barrels. The other half of the batch will go into cans and a small amount of draught will be available. While we're having a good time with some mild trolling and a little bit of smack talk, I'd be lying if I said I'm not really excited about this beer and the opportunity to brew something a little different from what I've done in the past.
The day after our barleywine brew day we hosted our good friend Ian "Beer Guy" Harwell from Ground Control for a collaboration brew day. Ian had some awesome art work done for the can featuring himself in a wrestling ring with a hop leaf... Probably my favorite can art from us. For the beer, we are using Pils malt from a new maltster (Proximity) that impressed us with their samples. It is highly uncommon that anyone can convince me to try something outside of Weyermann or Crisp malts, but the uniformity of the malting, biscuit and light honey flavors in the samples were exciting and it seemed to me that it would be the perfect base malt to show off some bright pineapple, grapefruit, and light floral/herbal aromas from my favorite Michigan grown hops out of Hop Head Farms.
It was a double batch brew day for us, so batch two of the day was the first beer in a new series of IPA's that we're calling "Bright and Juicy." A few months ago, I was talking with some customers that mentioned to me that they like our style of IPA's, but that they also liked lighter colored NEIPA's with a "brighter" hop aroma. Their comment got me thinking that I do tend to focus on the melon, berry, peach, and dank aromas in our IPA's and I'll use our "bright" aroma hops only for providing balance to the heavier, more intense aromatics. We do have access to several really great hop lots of hops that I would consider to be bright, such as our Amarillo which provides a ruby red grapefruit flavor when we use it in a blend with other citrusy hops.
Being a brewer that is always looking for brewing a wide variety of beers, I wanted to start this series to co-exist with our current IPA's that are a bit darker from our Maris Otter malts, and have the heavier aromatics. This first batch of our Bright and Juicy is featuring floor malted Bohemian Pils malt for a pale color and it has proven to be a good base for other hoppy beers we've brewed recently, such as our Double IPA Dry Hopped with Nelson and Mosaic. Perhaps the most exciting thing about this batch is the hop combo of all Oregon grown hops.
As I've mentioned in past posts, my trip to Oregon last September for the hop harvest was incredible. I found several hop lots that I couldn't believe how great they smelled. Two hops in particular stood out when I smelled them: Comet (which we brewed a single hop IPA with) and Strata. The Comet stood out in part because it's normally not thought of as a very exciting hop, but Crosby Farms first year of growing it yielded a hop that I considered to be special and a testament to their soil conditions and climate. Strata was a new one for me and we were fortunate to get a couple of boxes for this year as well as a contract for next year. This Bright and Juicy will be the first beer from us to feature it and we anticipate a huge amount of passionfruit aroma combined with the ruby red grapefruit of our Amarillo to be the dominant aromas.
Our last upcoming new beer is a pale lager that we intend to be for brewery only release in cans and draught throughout Cochise County. We are fortunate to live in a state where craft drinkers have come back around to appreciating lagers and where the bar is set high, due to many years of craft breweries producing world class lagers. We have our lager tanks filled right now and our process is a little bit unique for these beers in that we fermented them entirely in the shallow lagering vessels. We used a previously released, popular lager (Oktoberfest) recipe and scaled it down to a lower ABV, with a dryer finish, but it still displays all the malty flavor that we get from Vienna and Munich malts in our traditional Oktoberfest recipe. At 4.9% ABV and 7 IBU's, this is going to be a light lager that still packs an intensity of flavor that most people will not expect from a low abv, pale lager, while simultaneously retaining all the drinkability that people look for in a light beer.
Monday, January 28, 2019
All the Hops Series
For the last couple of months, we've been brewing a lot of single hop IPA's. This has been a way of showing off the quality of our selected hop contracts. Anyone that's been following us for the last couple years knows that raw material quality is something that we take very seriously and these hops are the epitome of that mindset.
Every hop we have contracted now is an individual lot that we have determined to be the absolute best lot we can find of that variety. The varieties we have are Amarillo, Simcoe, Mosaic, and Citra. In order to get the quality of hop that we're looking for, we have minimum purchase orders that are prohibitive for most breweries of our size. Fortunately, we have a tendency to use ludicrous amounts of hops in our IPA's which makes the contract size reasonable for us. When we select our lots, there's typically anything from 4 to 8 different lots to select from and each one has distinct qualities that helps us to make single hopped beers that are unique and that have a complexity rarely seen in single hopped beers. The Amarillo we selected has a distinctive ruby red grapefruit aroma and a dank quality that is notable with our high hopping rates. The Mosaic has a ripe blueberry aroma along with a little bit of a tangerine which, combined with our normal IPA yeast strain, creates a fruit salad aroma in a finished beer. The Citra is very bright, tropical, and has an intense lychee aroma that we've been honing in for a few years now. Lastly, the Simcoe is probably the hop variety that I'm most excited about.
Years ago, when Simcoe was still a hop that was very limited, the aromas it tended to give off were distinctly fruit punch and pine. Over the years, Simcoe has been planted more and more and a large portion of the lots being sold had lost some of that original character. Many people remember a time when Simcoe was "catty" and while its reputation still persists for having that characteristic, it's been years since I've smelled any hops that have that unique aroma. One grower controls all of the Simcoe grown in America, which you'd think would lead to a consistent hop, but with the amount of acreage planted, each lot has varied wildly. It has been more and more difficult for small brewers to get Simcoe that I would consider to be of high quality. This year, about one third of the Simcoe grown is coming off of new vines that were planted from the original root stock. We were very fortunate to be able to get a contract for one of the most aromatic lots I've ever smelled and the aromas are much more typical of what I remember Simcoe smelling like when I started brewing back in 2009.
In addition to those contracted hops, we've also brewed two other single hopped beers (Comet and Idaho 7) with hops that were grown in Oregon, but were too limited in quantity to get individual lots on contract. Hopefully in 2020 the acreage will have increased to the point that we can get those premium lots on contract. All of the hops we've used for these beers have not just been grown in a specific terroir that resulted in these great aromas, but they've also been pelletized with low temperature pelletizers and used large screens to create a loose pellet, specifically designed for oil retention for use by craft brewers that want to focus on intense aromatics which is, obviously, perfect for IPA's and Double IPA's.
The last of our single hopped IPA's (Citra and Mosaic) will be canned at the end of this week and we will move on to a new series of beers that will feature a blend of our 4 contracted hops. Using the results from our single hopped beers, we were able to come up with a blend that we believe will be the perfect blend of hops for this series. Our next round of three beers will be an IPA, a Double IPA, and our first Triple IPA, each one using all of the hops at an obscene dosing rate. Fittingly, this series will be named "All the Hops." Be on the lookout for these beers to be canned at the end of Arizona Beer Week on February 15th!
Every hop we have contracted now is an individual lot that we have determined to be the absolute best lot we can find of that variety. The varieties we have are Amarillo, Simcoe, Mosaic, and Citra. In order to get the quality of hop that we're looking for, we have minimum purchase orders that are prohibitive for most breweries of our size. Fortunately, we have a tendency to use ludicrous amounts of hops in our IPA's which makes the contract size reasonable for us. When we select our lots, there's typically anything from 4 to 8 different lots to select from and each one has distinct qualities that helps us to make single hopped beers that are unique and that have a complexity rarely seen in single hopped beers. The Amarillo we selected has a distinctive ruby red grapefruit aroma and a dank quality that is notable with our high hopping rates. The Mosaic has a ripe blueberry aroma along with a little bit of a tangerine which, combined with our normal IPA yeast strain, creates a fruit salad aroma in a finished beer. The Citra is very bright, tropical, and has an intense lychee aroma that we've been honing in for a few years now. Lastly, the Simcoe is probably the hop variety that I'm most excited about.
Years ago, when Simcoe was still a hop that was very limited, the aromas it tended to give off were distinctly fruit punch and pine. Over the years, Simcoe has been planted more and more and a large portion of the lots being sold had lost some of that original character. Many people remember a time when Simcoe was "catty" and while its reputation still persists for having that characteristic, it's been years since I've smelled any hops that have that unique aroma. One grower controls all of the Simcoe grown in America, which you'd think would lead to a consistent hop, but with the amount of acreage planted, each lot has varied wildly. It has been more and more difficult for small brewers to get Simcoe that I would consider to be of high quality. This year, about one third of the Simcoe grown is coming off of new vines that were planted from the original root stock. We were very fortunate to be able to get a contract for one of the most aromatic lots I've ever smelled and the aromas are much more typical of what I remember Simcoe smelling like when I started brewing back in 2009.
In addition to those contracted hops, we've also brewed two other single hopped beers (Comet and Idaho 7) with hops that were grown in Oregon, but were too limited in quantity to get individual lots on contract. Hopefully in 2020 the acreage will have increased to the point that we can get those premium lots on contract. All of the hops we've used for these beers have not just been grown in a specific terroir that resulted in these great aromas, but they've also been pelletized with low temperature pelletizers and used large screens to create a loose pellet, specifically designed for oil retention for use by craft brewers that want to focus on intense aromatics which is, obviously, perfect for IPA's and Double IPA's.
The last of our single hopped IPA's (Citra and Mosaic) will be canned at the end of this week and we will move on to a new series of beers that will feature a blend of our 4 contracted hops. Using the results from our single hopped beers, we were able to come up with a blend that we believe will be the perfect blend of hops for this series. Our next round of three beers will be an IPA, a Double IPA, and our first Triple IPA, each one using all of the hops at an obscene dosing rate. Fittingly, this series will be named "All the Hops." Be on the lookout for these beers to be canned at the end of Arizona Beer Week on February 15th!
Monday, October 22, 2018
Reiterated Mash Imperial Stout
Yesterday, we canned the biggest beer (15.5% ABV) I've brewed in almost 10 years and with all of our social media posts, I've been getting a bunch of questions about it. I realized today that I never did a blog post about it and with a beer like this, it doesn't do it justice to just release it and not talk about it. This is one of the most insane beers I've ever brewed. Somehow, when I get excited about the potential of brewing something like this, I never remember to think about how much the process might suck. Then when I'm miserable I declare I'm never doing it again, only to find myself drinking the beer a few weeks later and thinking about how I can't wait to brew another beer in a similar manner... It's a vicious cycle that has resulted in my desire to increase our wet hop and fresh hop beer production every year, and now has resulted in me wanting to further explore the technique that made this beer possible: Reiterated Mashing.
Many homebrewers that brew with the "Brew in a Bag" technique are familiar with the concept of reiterated mashes. What many people don't realize though is that this technique is an old one that is rarely practiced commercially anymore. The basic idea is that all brewhouses have a maximum extract yield with a single mash. For most brewers, if they want to brew a higher gravity beer than their brewhouse allows, they add malt extract or sugar to boost the gravity, or they use very long boils to evaporate as much liquid as necessary to concentrate the wort. In our case, we did our normal mash and lauter routine, collecting 500 gallons in our boil kettle. We then took that wort and transferred it from the boil kettle, back to the mash tun, where we mashed a second round of malts.
Brewing with a reiterated mash allowed us to use a little bit of every normal technique for high gravity beers. After the second mash, the wort was so thick with sugar that it formed chocolate syrup like consistency and it was difficult to get it to run through the false bottom of our lauter tun and feed our pump. As a result, these brew days took us 18 hours to brew a single batch. Normally in 16 hours, we can have 3 batches of beer brewed when we're using our normal brewing techniques. With all that extra time that it took to do our second mash, we were able to boil down about 100 gallons of wort in our kettle to 50 gallons which concentrated the flavors of the malts from the first batch.
Brewing this beer was definitely a challenge and formulating the recipe was almost as challenging as the physicality of the brew day itself. A big problem exists when trying to brew this way in that in addition to doubling the amount of potential fermentable sugars, you also double the amount of long chain, unfermentable sugars. While we want a big imperial stout like this to be thick and chewy, without some form of simple sugar added, this beer would be perceived as being extremely unbalanced with intensely crude malt flavors. To help dry the beer out a little bit, I didn't want to add simple sugars like sucrose or candi sugar. I wanted a form of sugar that would add flavor while also helping to shift the balance of the beer towards a more dry character. As a result, we used 660 lbs of Vermont Maple Syrup using late harvest sap concentrated to make a very dark, robust maple syrup. The goal was never to make a beer that tastes like maple syrup beer, but rather to use a form of sugar that would provide flavors that would meld with the malts and provide balance. The flavor influence of the maple syrup is not distinguishable as maple syrup, but rather it provides a mildly nutty flavor compound as part of the complexity of this imperial stout.
Beyond the brew day itself, brewing a beer this big is a challenge for the yeast too. We take a lot of pride in being able to brew beers free of the burning fusel alcohol character that is present in almost every extreme beer available. In order to make a beer this strong, you will inevitably end up with some fusel alcohol character, but frequently, I find beers like this to be undrinkable because of the burning sensation. To avoid that, we used a yeast strain that is known to handle higher alcohol levels, propagated a large amount of yeast from a small pitch so that we were using a pure, first generation culture, fed it with yeast nutrient, and kept our aeration rates relatively low to keep the fusel alcohol production to a minimum.
The result of using these somewhat extreme techniques is a deceptively strong Imperial Stout since it does not have the burning alcohol sensation that you might expect. Instead it is rich, chocolaty, creamy, and thick, but proceed with caution as the elevated alcohol content may take you by surprise. In fact, if you drink two cans of this beer, it gets gradually more difficult to write a coherent blog post and it takes 2-3x longer than normal... Don't ask me how I know.
Monday, September 24, 2018
Wet Hops, Fresh Hops, and Turning Disappointment into Excitement
Normally these blog posts result from hours of thought about something that I want to share with the world and they serve as a way for me to get something off of my mind. Today though, I haven't had much time to think about this post as it's been hectic at the brewery all day long. The topic of this post really stems from a stretch of unfortunate circumstances that have lead to a pretty exciting opportunity for the brewery.
Every year, I look forward to September as it's the only time of year we get to brew with wet hops. Wet hops need to be used within 24 hours of harvesting and the best quality hops in the USA are not grown anywhere near Tombstone. This creates a huge logistical challenge to brewing those beers in a timely manner. All of our hops are supplied from Oregon and Michigan now, so wet hops need to be harvested, put directly onto a plane or refrigerated truck, and delivered to the brewery where a full kettle awaits their addition. That was the manner in which our Wet Hop Pale Ales (released on Saturday) were brewed. Brewing with wet hops is difficult, expensive, and very time consuming, but it can only happen once a year and the unique flavors from hops directly off the vine makes all the effort worth it.
When I was placing orders for wet hops a few months ago, my intent was to release a third wet hop beer using Idaho 7 which would be our Wet Hop IPA. Idaho 7 is a variety that matures weeks later than most other hops, so it looked like the timing would work out perfectly with our production schedule which would have had the beer being brewed tomorrow. Unfortunately, today I received bad news... The Idaho 7 we were planning on using was already browning and would not survive the delivery to Tombstone. It is great to have the confirmation that our suppliers won't sell us an inferior product and we have to be understanding of the change since this was the result of nature... there was no way to predict or avoid this situation. When I was informed of the issue, I immediately began looking for another variety that we could use as wet hops, but this late in the season, the harvest is basically complete and other than a few varieties I was not interested in using, nothing would be harvested from this point on.
Disappointment and panic both set in pretty quickly when I found out there was nothing I could do about getting wet hops. We already have a pallet of cans with Wet Hop IPA labels on them and we were missing out on an opportunity to provide a rare type of beer to our customers (plus, being a bit greedy... I really love drinking wet hop beers straight from the fermenter). As the disappointment began to really hit, I got a call from both of our hop suppliers letting me know that we could actually do something even a little more unique... Fresh hop beers!
Fresh hops differ from wet hops and the differences have been a source of confusion for years now as the terms have been used interchangeably by some brewers. Wet hops are (obviously) fresh, but fresh hops are not necessarily wet. When hops are harvested, they are cut from the vine and the hop cones are transported to a kiln where the hops are dried. Typically, after the kiln the hops are baled and put into cold storage where they are kept until they can be pelletized. While the hops sit in the bales, the aroma changes quickly in the first week before they become a (mostly) stable product. Fresh hops are not allowed to sit in the bales. The kilning process tends to concentrate the flavor of the hops and as the moisture is removed, the grassy, chlorophyll flavor dissipates with it. If the hops are used within a few days of being kilned, the highly volatile aromas remain in the hops.
Freshly kilned hops are a unique ingredient that few brewers have the opportunity to experience. One of my favorite beers, Celebration Ale by Sierra Nevada, is the most readily available fresh hop beer in America. Other than Celebration Ale though, I can't think of another commercially available fresh hop beer that I've tried. A year ago I asked our growers about the possibility of getting freshly kilned hops and I was told that they weren't set up to ship hops that way, except for maybe if I could take 200 lbs of a single variety. At our size, that's out of the question. Most breweries that are at a production volume to deal with that quantity don't have the ability to do one off releases or to block off portions of their schedule to allow a window of opportunity in order to be flexible for the changes in the hop harvest.
In many ways, this schedule change is actually more exciting to me than brewing another wet hop beer. I've never had the chance to brew with freshly kilned hops before and I've wanted to do so for years. The timing was somewhat coincidental too... We already planned on brewing a single hop Idaho 7 IPA using hops from Crosby Farms, the cans are already in the brewery, and now that beer is being turned into a fresh hop Idaho 7 IPA. The Wet Hop IPA is being changed to a fresh hop beer using Chinook and Cashmere from Hop Head Farms in Michigan and since the cans were already printed, there will be a sticker on the cans to indicate the change. The working title is "Almost Wet Hop IPA." I'm not sure I'll ever get the chance again to use freshly kilned hops from such high quality growers, so now that we've jumped through all the hoops to alter our schedule, I almost can't believe how lucky I am to have the chance to use such a rare hop product!
Every year, I look forward to September as it's the only time of year we get to brew with wet hops. Wet hops need to be used within 24 hours of harvesting and the best quality hops in the USA are not grown anywhere near Tombstone. This creates a huge logistical challenge to brewing those beers in a timely manner. All of our hops are supplied from Oregon and Michigan now, so wet hops need to be harvested, put directly onto a plane or refrigerated truck, and delivered to the brewery where a full kettle awaits their addition. That was the manner in which our Wet Hop Pale Ales (released on Saturday) were brewed. Brewing with wet hops is difficult, expensive, and very time consuming, but it can only happen once a year and the unique flavors from hops directly off the vine makes all the effort worth it.
When I was placing orders for wet hops a few months ago, my intent was to release a third wet hop beer using Idaho 7 which would be our Wet Hop IPA. Idaho 7 is a variety that matures weeks later than most other hops, so it looked like the timing would work out perfectly with our production schedule which would have had the beer being brewed tomorrow. Unfortunately, today I received bad news... The Idaho 7 we were planning on using was already browning and would not survive the delivery to Tombstone. It is great to have the confirmation that our suppliers won't sell us an inferior product and we have to be understanding of the change since this was the result of nature... there was no way to predict or avoid this situation. When I was informed of the issue, I immediately began looking for another variety that we could use as wet hops, but this late in the season, the harvest is basically complete and other than a few varieties I was not interested in using, nothing would be harvested from this point on.
Disappointment and panic both set in pretty quickly when I found out there was nothing I could do about getting wet hops. We already have a pallet of cans with Wet Hop IPA labels on them and we were missing out on an opportunity to provide a rare type of beer to our customers (plus, being a bit greedy... I really love drinking wet hop beers straight from the fermenter). As the disappointment began to really hit, I got a call from both of our hop suppliers letting me know that we could actually do something even a little more unique... Fresh hop beers!
Fresh hops differ from wet hops and the differences have been a source of confusion for years now as the terms have been used interchangeably by some brewers. Wet hops are (obviously) fresh, but fresh hops are not necessarily wet. When hops are harvested, they are cut from the vine and the hop cones are transported to a kiln where the hops are dried. Typically, after the kiln the hops are baled and put into cold storage where they are kept until they can be pelletized. While the hops sit in the bales, the aroma changes quickly in the first week before they become a (mostly) stable product. Fresh hops are not allowed to sit in the bales. The kilning process tends to concentrate the flavor of the hops and as the moisture is removed, the grassy, chlorophyll flavor dissipates with it. If the hops are used within a few days of being kilned, the highly volatile aromas remain in the hops.
Freshly kilned hops are a unique ingredient that few brewers have the opportunity to experience. One of my favorite beers, Celebration Ale by Sierra Nevada, is the most readily available fresh hop beer in America. Other than Celebration Ale though, I can't think of another commercially available fresh hop beer that I've tried. A year ago I asked our growers about the possibility of getting freshly kilned hops and I was told that they weren't set up to ship hops that way, except for maybe if I could take 200 lbs of a single variety. At our size, that's out of the question. Most breweries that are at a production volume to deal with that quantity don't have the ability to do one off releases or to block off portions of their schedule to allow a window of opportunity in order to be flexible for the changes in the hop harvest.
In many ways, this schedule change is actually more exciting to me than brewing another wet hop beer. I've never had the chance to brew with freshly kilned hops before and I've wanted to do so for years. The timing was somewhat coincidental too... We already planned on brewing a single hop Idaho 7 IPA using hops from Crosby Farms, the cans are already in the brewery, and now that beer is being turned into a fresh hop Idaho 7 IPA. The Wet Hop IPA is being changed to a fresh hop beer using Chinook and Cashmere from Hop Head Farms in Michigan and since the cans were already printed, there will be a sticker on the cans to indicate the change. The working title is "Almost Wet Hop IPA." I'm not sure I'll ever get the chance again to use freshly kilned hops from such high quality growers, so now that we've jumped through all the hoops to alter our schedule, I almost can't believe how lucky I am to have the chance to use such a rare hop product!
Thursday, July 19, 2018
Lagers for Today's Craft Beer Enthusiasts
It seems like for the last three or four years, during almost every discussion panel, podcast, interview, etc. I've participated in, the question "What is the next trend in craft beers?" has been asked. So frequently, the answer I hear is "Lagers." However, during that same 3-4 year span, lagers haven't really taken off. With every beer trend that begins, I always wonder what is pushing the trends forward. Frequently, it is brewers trying to find the next big thing rather than customers asking for what the brewers are producing. As I was working through our production schedule for the next 3 months with Matt, I couldn't help but think about this supposed impending lager boom that's been on the horizon and why it hasn't really taken off.
I can't help but think that as an industry, we craft brewers keep shooting ourselves in the foot when it comes to lagers. Too frequently brewers think of lagers as being cheap beers and as a result, not a lot of effort gets put into them. I look at all the Amber lagers brewed with heaps of caramel malt being labeled as Dunkels and all the Pilsners brewed with American Pils malt, old hops, etc. and I can't help but think that as an industry, we aren't introducing high quality examples to the market. I can admit that I was part of that problem when I first started brewing lagers without a really good understanding of how to make them properly. There are notable exceptions of course (Jack's Abby and Bierstadt Lagerhaus come to mind immediately), and with those exceptions, there comes some real excitement from craft beer drinkers that may have thought of lagers as dull, boring beers. Another reason that the lager boom hasn't taken place is simply due to the time it takes to produce them which results in it not being worth the time for a lot of brewers to mess with.
As I type this, I can't help but remember certain beers that influenced my career. I was among the many craft beer geeks that thought I didn't like lagers even in the first few years of my professional brewing career. The first lager I remember being intrigued by was Sam Adams Noble Pils in its first year of production, sometime around 2009. I remember that first year as being exceptionally hoppy for a Pils and a distinctly complex grassy, floral flavor from the hop combination. Then the next year, I remember being let down by it and that was kind of the end of my excitement towards craft lagers for a while.
Then, in 2014 when I was about to head to Doemens for the World Brewing Academy, I was kind of dreading the beer selection that I would be looking at for the next 6 weeks... No IPA's, not really any funky options, no stouts, basically no ales other than hefeweizens (which I also thought I hated). Instead, we'd be in Munich where Helles and Dunkels dominate the beer scene. Those six weeks in Europe opened my eyes. Being in a place where lagers have been perfected over the course of around 200 years was a completely different experience. The intense maltiness of the lightest colored Helles brewers could produce was shocking. The assertive ester character from Augustiner's yeast was exciting to me. The complex malty flavors void of candy like sweetness from overuse of caramel malts and soft mouthfeel of Andech's Dunkel was eye opening.
As I began experiencing this, I spent a lot of time talking with my German teachers at Doemens about what makes those beers special and I started writing out recipes and keeping a journal of thoughts about how these beers could be introduced to American craft beer drinkers in a way that would get customers excited. Then I had two beers that really changed the way I looked at lagers entirely: Augustiner Pils and a small batch Rauchbier brewed at Weyermann's pilot brewery.
In both cases, I felt like it was obvious that there was a place for those beers with American craft drinkers. The Augustiner Pils was like an extreme version of my memory of that first year of Sam Adam's Noble Pils. It was dry, crisp, refreshing, highly carbonated, and filled with noble hop flavor that was floral and grassy, with the intensity of a heavily hopped pale ale. The Rauchbier at Weyermann was delicately smoky with beechwood smoked malt, very full bodied, and it had a beautiful, deep amber color. Pairing that beer with smoked salmon trout (I'm still not entirely sure what that fish actually is, but it was delicious) was one of the best beer and food pairings I've ever experienced.
Now, years later, I do believe it is time for some lager styles to boom in the USA, but I don't think it will necessarily be traditional, sessionable lagers that start the lager craze (although, for a brief span it did look like Vienna Lagers disguised as Mexican Lagers would take off). But rather, I think we can learn a lot from traditional lager brewers as we introduce styles more suited for the craft beer enthusiasts here. Now that we have our lager tanks in Tombstone, we will be producing significantly more of them going forward. We started with a new hop bursted Pilsener and a traditional schwarzbier (Black Lager) which we introduced in cans last week, and now we are moving on to a round of three lagers that is likely to generate a little more curiosity.
The beer I'm perhaps looking forward to the most from this round is a style that even the geekiest of craft beer geeks is unlikely to have heard of before: Kulmbacher. The style originated in Kulmbach, a city in Upper Franconia, Bavaria, and there is a lot of room for confusion here. Today, there is a brewery that shares the name of the style and further complicating things, the Kulmbacher brewery is actually 4 breweries from Kulmbach that merged together in the 1980's, and they don't brew the traditional Kulmbacher style. The city of Kulmbach has a brewing history that dates back almost 670 years to 1349. Located in Upper Franconia, the city is sometimes referred to as "The Secret Capital of Beer" and it has the largest amount of breweries per capita of any city in Germany.
As with most German cities, Kulmbach had its own style of beer that it was known for in the late 1800's and early 1900's. The Kulmbacher style was known for being dark with a rich malt flavor and heavily hopped. Several things lead to the phasing out of the interesting style, but two things are most notable. First, around 1900, breweries in Kulmbach received warnings that they were breaking the Reinheitsgebot due to the use of caramel coloring to make the beer appear darker. Also around that time, German palates began to shift in favor of beers with less bitterness. The Kulmbachers being produced at that time were strong beers at 6.0-8.0% ABV and it was not uncommon for the bitterness to be up around 80 IBU's. I recall discussing this style with one of our teachers at Doemens when we were learning about "extinct" German styles.
Recently, an article was written by a beer historian, Ron Pattinson, and published on BeerAdvocate.com. When I saw the article, it reminded me of that talk and how at the time I wanted to attempt brewing one. I went back through my brewing notes and found the recipe that I had written down after that discussion. My take on the style is something that I think will suit modern palates well while still maintaining historical accuracy. The malts we used come from Weyermann which opened its doors during the Kulmbacher heyday in 1879. The basemalt used at the time would have been similar to what we know today simply as Munich Malt. However, when recreating a historical style, there are many factors in regard to ingredient selection that need to be thought about.
About every 10 years now, advances in barley varieties result in old varieties getting phased out in favor of varieties with better agronomics. Unfortunately, flavor can frequently suffer in newer varieties as the focus is more on the growing habits than flavor. On occasion, maltsters will realize that a variety is getting phased out and will intervene in order to preserve varieties that they think of as being worthy of continued use. Weyermann realized the special flavor qualities of Barke barley and convinced a few growers in Bavaria to continue planting it. It is now listed as an heirloom barley variety and is notable for its richness and depth of flavor. The Barke Munich malt has an incredible classic Munich toasty flavor and is very similar in flavor to what would have been used 150 years ago (although, malting technology has gotten so much better now that the quality control and consistency is going to be significantly improved).
One of the intriguing things about the Kulmbacher style also was that the breweries there used their own unique type of decoction mash schedule for these beers. Instead of a 3 step mash, only one decoction was used and it was not so much for flavor development or even for the necessity of modifying the malt further. The brewers there would decoct the mash, take the decoction and begin boiling it as is normal, but then they would leave a small amount of the liquid in the boil kettle and do their first hop addition. Sometimes referred to as "hopfenrosten" or "hop roasting." The utilization of the hop acids would have been very poor, but the goal of that technique is not that different from utilizing a first wort hop addition which is how we went about recreating that particular part of the style without a decoction mash.
Perhaps the most interesting part of this style from a historical perspective is that when the brewers were warned about the use of caramel coloring, the beers had to have changed drastically. To still get the same dark color brewers had to switch to roasted malts which would have increased the roastiness and astringency. Not so coincidentally, in 1902 Weyermann released a special additive, Sinimar, which is completely Reinheitsgebot compliant. It is made from their dehusked roasted malt, hops, and yeast, and concentrated via evaporation, sterile filtered, and packaged. Due to their unique process, it has a pleasant roasted chocolate flavor with even less astringency than you would find in dehusked roasted malts. The use of Sinimar in our version creates a very dark brown, almost black appearance.
Overall, it would be appropriate to describe our version of the beer as a sort of Brown IPL (or India Brown Lager if you hate the oxymoron) with 100% traditional German ingredients. We used a comparable hopping rate to the norm of original examples, but we used a hopping schedule more similar to our lowly bittered, highly aromatic Pils. Other than the small First Wort Hop, all the hot side hops were added in the whirlpool and the beer will be dry hopped. 100% of the ingredients we used were grown and processed in Bavaria with the hops being the traditional Hallertauer Mittelfruh. The Barke Munich was malted just 37 miles away from Kulmbach and our yeast came from one of Bavaria's oldest and most well known lager breweries. With our RO water, we were able to recreate exactly the moderately hard water profile that would have been used in the early 1900's. Reintroducing styles like this is one of my favorite things to do as a brewer.
The second beer we brewed this week was a Double India Pale Lager. This beer is using fruity, American grown hops just like we would use in our NEIPA's: Idaho 7, Citra, and Mosaic. Sticking with my thought of keeping some traditional lager elements, I used another very traditional type of malt. For this beer, the majority of the malt used was Floor Malted Bohemian Pilsner Malt grown and malted in the Czech Republic. The terroir for this growing region results in a very soft mouthfeel from the barley and the floor malting is a traditional malting method that results in more depth of flavor and a richness that has not yet been created with modern malting techniques. This beer will feature many elements that you would expect from a Tombstone Double IPA with an insane hopping rate, but will have a crisp, well lagered mouthfeel.
The final beer we brewed this week was a Doppelbock which also features a large amount of Barke Munich Malt, Floor Malted Pils Malt, and Sinimar. We brewed 30 BBL of the doppelbock and half of it will be lagered in a mix of bourbon and other spirit barrels while the other half is released in cans.
Prost!
I can't help but think that as an industry, we craft brewers keep shooting ourselves in the foot when it comes to lagers. Too frequently brewers think of lagers as being cheap beers and as a result, not a lot of effort gets put into them. I look at all the Amber lagers brewed with heaps of caramel malt being labeled as Dunkels and all the Pilsners brewed with American Pils malt, old hops, etc. and I can't help but think that as an industry, we aren't introducing high quality examples to the market. I can admit that I was part of that problem when I first started brewing lagers without a really good understanding of how to make them properly. There are notable exceptions of course (Jack's Abby and Bierstadt Lagerhaus come to mind immediately), and with those exceptions, there comes some real excitement from craft beer drinkers that may have thought of lagers as dull, boring beers. Another reason that the lager boom hasn't taken place is simply due to the time it takes to produce them which results in it not being worth the time for a lot of brewers to mess with.
As I type this, I can't help but remember certain beers that influenced my career. I was among the many craft beer geeks that thought I didn't like lagers even in the first few years of my professional brewing career. The first lager I remember being intrigued by was Sam Adams Noble Pils in its first year of production, sometime around 2009. I remember that first year as being exceptionally hoppy for a Pils and a distinctly complex grassy, floral flavor from the hop combination. Then the next year, I remember being let down by it and that was kind of the end of my excitement towards craft lagers for a while.
Then, in 2014 when I was about to head to Doemens for the World Brewing Academy, I was kind of dreading the beer selection that I would be looking at for the next 6 weeks... No IPA's, not really any funky options, no stouts, basically no ales other than hefeweizens (which I also thought I hated). Instead, we'd be in Munich where Helles and Dunkels dominate the beer scene. Those six weeks in Europe opened my eyes. Being in a place where lagers have been perfected over the course of around 200 years was a completely different experience. The intense maltiness of the lightest colored Helles brewers could produce was shocking. The assertive ester character from Augustiner's yeast was exciting to me. The complex malty flavors void of candy like sweetness from overuse of caramel malts and soft mouthfeel of Andech's Dunkel was eye opening.
As I began experiencing this, I spent a lot of time talking with my German teachers at Doemens about what makes those beers special and I started writing out recipes and keeping a journal of thoughts about how these beers could be introduced to American craft beer drinkers in a way that would get customers excited. Then I had two beers that really changed the way I looked at lagers entirely: Augustiner Pils and a small batch Rauchbier brewed at Weyermann's pilot brewery.
In both cases, I felt like it was obvious that there was a place for those beers with American craft drinkers. The Augustiner Pils was like an extreme version of my memory of that first year of Sam Adam's Noble Pils. It was dry, crisp, refreshing, highly carbonated, and filled with noble hop flavor that was floral and grassy, with the intensity of a heavily hopped pale ale. The Rauchbier at Weyermann was delicately smoky with beechwood smoked malt, very full bodied, and it had a beautiful, deep amber color. Pairing that beer with smoked salmon trout (I'm still not entirely sure what that fish actually is, but it was delicious) was one of the best beer and food pairings I've ever experienced.
Now, years later, I do believe it is time for some lager styles to boom in the USA, but I don't think it will necessarily be traditional, sessionable lagers that start the lager craze (although, for a brief span it did look like Vienna Lagers disguised as Mexican Lagers would take off). But rather, I think we can learn a lot from traditional lager brewers as we introduce styles more suited for the craft beer enthusiasts here. Now that we have our lager tanks in Tombstone, we will be producing significantly more of them going forward. We started with a new hop bursted Pilsener and a traditional schwarzbier (Black Lager) which we introduced in cans last week, and now we are moving on to a round of three lagers that is likely to generate a little more curiosity.
The beer I'm perhaps looking forward to the most from this round is a style that even the geekiest of craft beer geeks is unlikely to have heard of before: Kulmbacher. The style originated in Kulmbach, a city in Upper Franconia, Bavaria, and there is a lot of room for confusion here. Today, there is a brewery that shares the name of the style and further complicating things, the Kulmbacher brewery is actually 4 breweries from Kulmbach that merged together in the 1980's, and they don't brew the traditional Kulmbacher style. The city of Kulmbach has a brewing history that dates back almost 670 years to 1349. Located in Upper Franconia, the city is sometimes referred to as "The Secret Capital of Beer" and it has the largest amount of breweries per capita of any city in Germany.
As with most German cities, Kulmbach had its own style of beer that it was known for in the late 1800's and early 1900's. The Kulmbacher style was known for being dark with a rich malt flavor and heavily hopped. Several things lead to the phasing out of the interesting style, but two things are most notable. First, around 1900, breweries in Kulmbach received warnings that they were breaking the Reinheitsgebot due to the use of caramel coloring to make the beer appear darker. Also around that time, German palates began to shift in favor of beers with less bitterness. The Kulmbachers being produced at that time were strong beers at 6.0-8.0% ABV and it was not uncommon for the bitterness to be up around 80 IBU's. I recall discussing this style with one of our teachers at Doemens when we were learning about "extinct" German styles.
Recently, an article was written by a beer historian, Ron Pattinson, and published on BeerAdvocate.com. When I saw the article, it reminded me of that talk and how at the time I wanted to attempt brewing one. I went back through my brewing notes and found the recipe that I had written down after that discussion. My take on the style is something that I think will suit modern palates well while still maintaining historical accuracy. The malts we used come from Weyermann which opened its doors during the Kulmbacher heyday in 1879. The basemalt used at the time would have been similar to what we know today simply as Munich Malt. However, when recreating a historical style, there are many factors in regard to ingredient selection that need to be thought about.
About every 10 years now, advances in barley varieties result in old varieties getting phased out in favor of varieties with better agronomics. Unfortunately, flavor can frequently suffer in newer varieties as the focus is more on the growing habits than flavor. On occasion, maltsters will realize that a variety is getting phased out and will intervene in order to preserve varieties that they think of as being worthy of continued use. Weyermann realized the special flavor qualities of Barke barley and convinced a few growers in Bavaria to continue planting it. It is now listed as an heirloom barley variety and is notable for its richness and depth of flavor. The Barke Munich malt has an incredible classic Munich toasty flavor and is very similar in flavor to what would have been used 150 years ago (although, malting technology has gotten so much better now that the quality control and consistency is going to be significantly improved).
One of the intriguing things about the Kulmbacher style also was that the breweries there used their own unique type of decoction mash schedule for these beers. Instead of a 3 step mash, only one decoction was used and it was not so much for flavor development or even for the necessity of modifying the malt further. The brewers there would decoct the mash, take the decoction and begin boiling it as is normal, but then they would leave a small amount of the liquid in the boil kettle and do their first hop addition. Sometimes referred to as "hopfenrosten" or "hop roasting." The utilization of the hop acids would have been very poor, but the goal of that technique is not that different from utilizing a first wort hop addition which is how we went about recreating that particular part of the style without a decoction mash.
Perhaps the most interesting part of this style from a historical perspective is that when the brewers were warned about the use of caramel coloring, the beers had to have changed drastically. To still get the same dark color brewers had to switch to roasted malts which would have increased the roastiness and astringency. Not so coincidentally, in 1902 Weyermann released a special additive, Sinimar, which is completely Reinheitsgebot compliant. It is made from their dehusked roasted malt, hops, and yeast, and concentrated via evaporation, sterile filtered, and packaged. Due to their unique process, it has a pleasant roasted chocolate flavor with even less astringency than you would find in dehusked roasted malts. The use of Sinimar in our version creates a very dark brown, almost black appearance.
Overall, it would be appropriate to describe our version of the beer as a sort of Brown IPL (or India Brown Lager if you hate the oxymoron) with 100% traditional German ingredients. We used a comparable hopping rate to the norm of original examples, but we used a hopping schedule more similar to our lowly bittered, highly aromatic Pils. Other than the small First Wort Hop, all the hot side hops were added in the whirlpool and the beer will be dry hopped. 100% of the ingredients we used were grown and processed in Bavaria with the hops being the traditional Hallertauer Mittelfruh. The Barke Munich was malted just 37 miles away from Kulmbach and our yeast came from one of Bavaria's oldest and most well known lager breweries. With our RO water, we were able to recreate exactly the moderately hard water profile that would have been used in the early 1900's. Reintroducing styles like this is one of my favorite things to do as a brewer.
The second beer we brewed this week was a Double India Pale Lager. This beer is using fruity, American grown hops just like we would use in our NEIPA's: Idaho 7, Citra, and Mosaic. Sticking with my thought of keeping some traditional lager elements, I used another very traditional type of malt. For this beer, the majority of the malt used was Floor Malted Bohemian Pilsner Malt grown and malted in the Czech Republic. The terroir for this growing region results in a very soft mouthfeel from the barley and the floor malting is a traditional malting method that results in more depth of flavor and a richness that has not yet been created with modern malting techniques. This beer will feature many elements that you would expect from a Tombstone Double IPA with an insane hopping rate, but will have a crisp, well lagered mouthfeel.
The final beer we brewed this week was a Doppelbock which also features a large amount of Barke Munich Malt, Floor Malted Pils Malt, and Sinimar. We brewed 30 BBL of the doppelbock and half of it will be lagered in a mix of bourbon and other spirit barrels while the other half is released in cans.
Prost!
Friday, March 23, 2018
Let's Get Funky!
I think that every serious craft beer drinker gets to a point when they feel a lull in their drinking experiences and nothing seems to wow them anymore. Nothing seems hoppy enough, every hyped bourbon barrel stout just tastes boozy and muddled, and every exciting sour beer just tastes like the brewery dumped acetic acid into the fermenter, added fruit and called it a day. The usual advice for curing palate fatigue like this is to go back to drinking session beers, pilseners, or styles you normally don't drink on a regular basis until your senses come back to you. Unfortunately, when you're a brewer and you're constantly having to brew and taste your beers, it can be hard to come by a break. You either deal with the disappointment of palate fatigue, or you push your beer to the next level of extreme. That's how beers like "Most Hops" are born... And even then when you drink it the thought is still "That's not as intense as I expected. I'll have to figure out how to do more." Matt is frequently telling me that I've gotten myself into an arms race with no one when we talk about this phenomenon.
A few years ago, I was in the middle of about a year long stretch where no beer was exciting to me. Brewing was turning into a job rather than a passion and I wasn't feeling very inspired by much of anything. While I was brewing at Blue Pants, our Tennessee sales manager requested that my assistant brewer and I go to a small beer fest in Memphis: Cooper Young's Beer Fest. I have never been the type of person to get excited about festivals, but this was a good opportunity for the brewers to get out and meet the people that sell our beer and develop relationships. I reluctantly agreed to go and it was at this fest that I had a beer that would change my perception about what beer could be.
The beer came from an unlikely source. After walking around and trying various beers and feeling like I'd had all of the exact same tasting experiences at every beer fest I'd ever attended, I saw a strange beer name on the board at a booth: "Brett... Not Sour" from Yazoo Brewing Company. It was very direct and to the point. Brettanomyces is a species of yeast, not bacteria and as such it doesn't make a beer sour as is commonly claimed. I gave it a try and I was floored by the flavor combinations, complexity, and drink-ability of that beer. I spent the rest of the afternoon walking between our booth and the Yazoo booth getting more samples of the same beer... Forget the festival and the hundreds of beers on tap. That was the one for me. Every glass I drank of it was better than the last. It had a huge tropical fruit aroma, intense mango flavor, lots of tangerine, some pineapple, it was dry and just incredible.
After drinking that beer, I began to realize that the way the beer community thinks of Brettanomyces is just flawed. For most beer enthusiasts, if you ask them what flavor you get from Brett, they'll use descriptors like "horse blanket" or "Leather." Sometimes people just use "Funky" and occasionally "Cherry Pie." Those are all fine descriptions for flavors that Brett can lend to a beer, but that is really just the tip of the iceberg. There are new Brett yeast strains being discovered constantly and despite huge steps forward in the studies of Brett in recent years, there are still a lot of unknowns.
After that day in Memphis, I started playing with different types of Brett fermentations myself and spent a lot of time researching ways that Brett can be used. It has now been almost 15 years since the first beers credited as being fermented completely with Brett were brewed by Russian River, Lost Abbey, and New Belgium. In that time, Brett fermentation still hasn't evolved much commercially whereas most brewers still think of Brett as a long term yeast used mostly for secondary and aging. During my research and development, I ended up working with a yeast lab to develop a blend of Brett strains that hits on a lot of flavors that are highly desirable for IPA breweries, but typically to get those flavors, brewers use hops. The blend is notable for its intense pineapple, peach, nectarine, and even watermelon flavors. Brewing Brett beers like that is one of the most fun things for me to do in the brewery.
In fact, when Matt and I had our first meetings during my interviews for the brewmaster position in Tombstone, a large part of our discussions revolved around the importance of brewing the next trendy styles. At one point in the conversation, I said "Screw it... If that's what we want to do, let's just do an all Brett brewery with Brett IPA's and fruited Brett beers." I think there was about a week long period where the idea was seriously considered, but I think that we determined that the time wasn't quite right for that type of plan, especially with the brewery's location in Tombstone and our reliance on selling beer on site to tourists and locals. If Arizona wasn't ready for it then, get ready now because it is coming.
With the addition of our temperature controlled Brett facility, we can safely keep the funky yeast away from our clean strains and have the best of both worlds. This week we will be brewing our first all Brett beers to be available on a large scale. We will have four fermenters where we will be able to split batches into different variants. The first batches will be IPA's with two fermenters being filled from one batch and dry hopped differently. The other two fermenters will be filled with a historical style, Dortmunder Adambier, with one of them being fermented with cherry wood and finished with cherry fruit, and the other being left as the base beer to be aged in oak barrels for six months to a year as would be normal for the style hundreds of years ago.
One of the cool things about doing Brett fermented IPA's is that the beer will evolve rapidly over the course of the first year in bottles. When fresh, the beer will feature the intense peach, pineapple, and mango flavors that the Brett provides as well as the intense hoppy aromas that we've become known for with our selected lots of hops. Brett is very good at scavenging micro oxidation, so the hop flavors will persist for a longer period of time than you would expect to find in our NEIPA's. After about three months in bottles, the pineapple flavor will develop more along with a subtle cherry flavor. The beer should never really get phenolic or spicy with this yeast blend, but will only alter the types of fruity esters over the course of a year. Eventually, years down the line the beer will develop some of the classic funky horsey qualities that are commonly associated with Brett, but not in a very intense manner like you would find in a beer that is fermented with Saccharomyces and aged with Brett. Beers fermented with Brett are typically perceived as being less bitter than the same wort fermented with Saccharomyces which is a quality that our NEIPA drinkers will be able to relate to easily. Since Brett does not produce glycogens like our NEIPA yeast strain does, we will be adding a large percentage of oats to keep the mouthfeel full, although the beer will be very dry like you expect in an old school West Coast IPA. Unlike our NEIPA's, I would recommend hoarding bottles, drinking a few fresh, and aging a few, trying them every couple months to watch the beer change.
The Dortmunder Adambier is a style that I wouldn't expect many people to have heard of. In fact, when I've talked about the style to some beer enthusiasts before they try to correct me like I'm a moron that calls Altbier by the wrong name. Perhaps the most well known example is Hair of The Dog's "Adam." This will be my second attempt at an Adambier after my first attempt won a silver medal at GABF and a bronze medal at World Beer Cup a few years ago. Adambier is a style that is considered to be extinct that originated in Dortmunder. The style was a high ABV beer that would almost certainly have been contaminated with Brett when it was aged in barrels for a year before consuming. One of the notable characteristics of the Adambier style is the lightly smoky flavor that would historically have come from malting grains over a beechwood fire. We will be using a moderate amount of beechwood smoked malt to achieve the same effect. Instead of an incidental Brett contamination, this beer will be co-fermented with a Saccharomyces strain similar to a Kolsch strain and Brett Lambicus. The Lambicus will continue to develop the classic Brett funk along with cherry pie over the course of many years. The version fermented with cherry wood and fruit will be best fresh, but could develop some interesting flavors with long term aging in the bottle. The version that is aged in oak will be available whenever the beer tells us it's ready which could be anywhere from six months to a year down the line and will be an excellent candidate for even more long term aging if maximum funkiness is what you desire.
A few years ago, I was in the middle of about a year long stretch where no beer was exciting to me. Brewing was turning into a job rather than a passion and I wasn't feeling very inspired by much of anything. While I was brewing at Blue Pants, our Tennessee sales manager requested that my assistant brewer and I go to a small beer fest in Memphis: Cooper Young's Beer Fest. I have never been the type of person to get excited about festivals, but this was a good opportunity for the brewers to get out and meet the people that sell our beer and develop relationships. I reluctantly agreed to go and it was at this fest that I had a beer that would change my perception about what beer could be.
The beer came from an unlikely source. After walking around and trying various beers and feeling like I'd had all of the exact same tasting experiences at every beer fest I'd ever attended, I saw a strange beer name on the board at a booth: "Brett... Not Sour" from Yazoo Brewing Company. It was very direct and to the point. Brettanomyces is a species of yeast, not bacteria and as such it doesn't make a beer sour as is commonly claimed. I gave it a try and I was floored by the flavor combinations, complexity, and drink-ability of that beer. I spent the rest of the afternoon walking between our booth and the Yazoo booth getting more samples of the same beer... Forget the festival and the hundreds of beers on tap. That was the one for me. Every glass I drank of it was better than the last. It had a huge tropical fruit aroma, intense mango flavor, lots of tangerine, some pineapple, it was dry and just incredible.
After drinking that beer, I began to realize that the way the beer community thinks of Brettanomyces is just flawed. For most beer enthusiasts, if you ask them what flavor you get from Brett, they'll use descriptors like "horse blanket" or "Leather." Sometimes people just use "Funky" and occasionally "Cherry Pie." Those are all fine descriptions for flavors that Brett can lend to a beer, but that is really just the tip of the iceberg. There are new Brett yeast strains being discovered constantly and despite huge steps forward in the studies of Brett in recent years, there are still a lot of unknowns.
After that day in Memphis, I started playing with different types of Brett fermentations myself and spent a lot of time researching ways that Brett can be used. It has now been almost 15 years since the first beers credited as being fermented completely with Brett were brewed by Russian River, Lost Abbey, and New Belgium. In that time, Brett fermentation still hasn't evolved much commercially whereas most brewers still think of Brett as a long term yeast used mostly for secondary and aging. During my research and development, I ended up working with a yeast lab to develop a blend of Brett strains that hits on a lot of flavors that are highly desirable for IPA breweries, but typically to get those flavors, brewers use hops. The blend is notable for its intense pineapple, peach, nectarine, and even watermelon flavors. Brewing Brett beers like that is one of the most fun things for me to do in the brewery.
In fact, when Matt and I had our first meetings during my interviews for the brewmaster position in Tombstone, a large part of our discussions revolved around the importance of brewing the next trendy styles. At one point in the conversation, I said "Screw it... If that's what we want to do, let's just do an all Brett brewery with Brett IPA's and fruited Brett beers." I think there was about a week long period where the idea was seriously considered, but I think that we determined that the time wasn't quite right for that type of plan, especially with the brewery's location in Tombstone and our reliance on selling beer on site to tourists and locals. If Arizona wasn't ready for it then, get ready now because it is coming.
With the addition of our temperature controlled Brett facility, we can safely keep the funky yeast away from our clean strains and have the best of both worlds. This week we will be brewing our first all Brett beers to be available on a large scale. We will have four fermenters where we will be able to split batches into different variants. The first batches will be IPA's with two fermenters being filled from one batch and dry hopped differently. The other two fermenters will be filled with a historical style, Dortmunder Adambier, with one of them being fermented with cherry wood and finished with cherry fruit, and the other being left as the base beer to be aged in oak barrels for six months to a year as would be normal for the style hundreds of years ago.
One of the cool things about doing Brett fermented IPA's is that the beer will evolve rapidly over the course of the first year in bottles. When fresh, the beer will feature the intense peach, pineapple, and mango flavors that the Brett provides as well as the intense hoppy aromas that we've become known for with our selected lots of hops. Brett is very good at scavenging micro oxidation, so the hop flavors will persist for a longer period of time than you would expect to find in our NEIPA's. After about three months in bottles, the pineapple flavor will develop more along with a subtle cherry flavor. The beer should never really get phenolic or spicy with this yeast blend, but will only alter the types of fruity esters over the course of a year. Eventually, years down the line the beer will develop some of the classic funky horsey qualities that are commonly associated with Brett, but not in a very intense manner like you would find in a beer that is fermented with Saccharomyces and aged with Brett. Beers fermented with Brett are typically perceived as being less bitter than the same wort fermented with Saccharomyces which is a quality that our NEIPA drinkers will be able to relate to easily. Since Brett does not produce glycogens like our NEIPA yeast strain does, we will be adding a large percentage of oats to keep the mouthfeel full, although the beer will be very dry like you expect in an old school West Coast IPA. Unlike our NEIPA's, I would recommend hoarding bottles, drinking a few fresh, and aging a few, trying them every couple months to watch the beer change.
The Dortmunder Adambier is a style that I wouldn't expect many people to have heard of. In fact, when I've talked about the style to some beer enthusiasts before they try to correct me like I'm a moron that calls Altbier by the wrong name. Perhaps the most well known example is Hair of The Dog's "Adam." This will be my second attempt at an Adambier after my first attempt won a silver medal at GABF and a bronze medal at World Beer Cup a few years ago. Adambier is a style that is considered to be extinct that originated in Dortmunder. The style was a high ABV beer that would almost certainly have been contaminated with Brett when it was aged in barrels for a year before consuming. One of the notable characteristics of the Adambier style is the lightly smoky flavor that would historically have come from malting grains over a beechwood fire. We will be using a moderate amount of beechwood smoked malt to achieve the same effect. Instead of an incidental Brett contamination, this beer will be co-fermented with a Saccharomyces strain similar to a Kolsch strain and Brett Lambicus. The Lambicus will continue to develop the classic Brett funk along with cherry pie over the course of many years. The version fermented with cherry wood and fruit will be best fresh, but could develop some interesting flavors with long term aging in the bottle. The version that is aged in oak will be available whenever the beer tells us it's ready which could be anywhere from six months to a year down the line and will be an excellent candidate for even more long term aging if maximum funkiness is what you desire.
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